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| MS Fram |
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Promotional Photo MS Fram
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"Built to traverse icy seas
The MS Fram can glide.
But if the waves get tall and rough
It's quite another ride."
AB
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Helpful Hint for those writing a school journal entry
You may choose one day of air travel or ship travel for your journal entry.
The blue boxes show what Lynda was told the schedule would be. Do not write your journal entry from these.
The light red boxes are what actually happened. The information in one of these is the basis for a journal entry. Ignore the bold print you see in the box for the purpose of your journal entry. Boldly printed words are facts Lynda just mentioned. You should read over the text in the box not bolded. Then use your own wording for the journal entry about what happened that day. You may use all or just some of the information Lynda recorded for the day in the light red box you have chosen.
After you write your journal entry, add two sentences onto the bottom of your journal entry.
One sentence should start with the words "I Imagine" and complete that sentence with what you think could happen next on the trip.
Example: I imagine tomorrow will be a very exciting day!
The next sentence should start with the words "I wonder" and complete that sentence with something about Antarctica that you in fact wonder about.
Example: I wonder how large the biggest iceberg will be!
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Day 1 February 19
We board in the afternoon for a 5 PM embarkation and 8 PM sailing departure.
Attend an information welcome meeting on the next few days schedule and about the ship's safety procedures. I'll be paying close attention about safety!
LS
Rooms to stay in are called "cabins" on a ship. Lynda and her husband Geof have a cabin on deck three in the center of the ship. When you look at the picture, it is the big red band with the ship's name on it. The cabin #338 is right next to the elevator. If the water is rough, they will be in a better situation concerning seasickness, but the elevator will make pinging noises a lot. AB
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Notes on Day 1 of the Journey
5PM saw us boarding the MS Fram. Both of us were very excited to be starting an important leg of our journey. Concern caused some flutters inside me when our 8PM departure was delayed an hour due to winds gusting over 100 kilometers per hour! The port was closed down.
It was 9PM when we set sale for the Beagle Channel. The crew warned us we were in for a bumpy ride. They kept repeating this over and over and over. We went to our cabin on level three. Geoff and I worried as to what lay ahead. The crew's warnings made us sharply aware we were on a quest to a destination frought by weather related happenings. In our minds we sought comfort in the experience of the crew and the fact that the Fram was built specifically to hold up to Arctic and Antarctic travel. Little sleep. I am so glad my Geoff is with me!
LS
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"Reading travel information
Is quite another thing.
Now within reality
Our bells begin to ring.
Impossible for us to guess
How rough the sea might be.
We huddled in our cabin
No choice but wait and see!" AB
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Day 2 February 20
Crossing the Drake Passage. This is the bit where I am hoping not to get seasick. This area of ocean is infamous for being one of the roughest stretches of water on the globe. Forty foot waves have been reported there. I am hoping for fair weather and will be taking sea sickness remedies in case. During the crossing a series of educational lectures will be held to prepare us for our unique experience in Antarctica and also to highlight environmentally friendly tourist practices in this pristine area. An apt motto is "Take only Photographs and Leave only Footprints." That is my aim as well.
LS
The two largest oceans in the world meet at the Drake Passage. They clink together and go "Cheers"! AB
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Notes on Day 2 of the Journey
Drake Passage Latitude 57-37S Longitude 64-04W. The crossing of the Drake Passage was set in my mind as a difficult part of the journey for me. I had read far too much about the raging sea, or so Geoff had said to me back home.
I had dosed off but my light sleep abruptly ended at 3:30AM by the rocking and rolling of the ship. Ocean waves around 18 to 20 feet with an occasional thirty footer thrown at us! Our porthole offered us a great view as the waves crash against the starboard side of the ship. It was like a roller coaster ride and we DID have to HOLD ON!
So this is the Drake Passage! It has a deserved infamous reputation. Winds travel clockwise around Antarctica with no obstacles to slow them down. My seasickness remedies are failing me. Lots of people are seasick. One poor lady was sick all over the deck. Some people are confined to quarters. I can hardly dare to eat.
I made it through one and a half lectures and missed the other four. I looked forward to the information and lectures so very much. I got through "Visiting The Antarctic Continent, An Overview" and part of "Research Stations on the Antarctic Peninsula". I HAD to take refuge in my bed. I thought I planned my seasickness remedies so well. Geoff is coping somewhat better than me. I laid in bed disappointed I was sick and thinking of the more fragile ships in the past trying to navigate the Drake Passage. We surge on towards the Antarctic Convergence, where the Atlantic and Southern Pacific Oceans meet.
Geoff remains a tough adventurer. Waves are not bothering him! In fact he is downing big three course breakfasts!
Things are a bit less violent now. I can see the wandering Albatross, giant Petrels and the Sooty Petrels soaring in the wind. The Albatross loves winds of 90 Kilometers and above because they can soar instead of the exhausting effort flapping their enormous wings.
Quote: "I now belong to a higher cult of mortals for I have seen the Albatross." Robert Cushman Murphy
LS
Wow! This surely is an unforgettable adventure! Perhaps R C Murphy felt was he was a touch of a super human to have survived the Drake Passage! Me? I would be wishing I could find a job once my Zodiac arrived on the Antarctic shore, in hopes of putting off the return trip across the Drake Passage!
Dry toast, crackers, or most of all, better weather, might help settle the "adventure illness". Sounds like no chance of consuming too many calories on this part of the trip for Lynda at least!
I think seeing the Albatross might mean the storm is weakening.
AB
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"The mighty Fram kept surging on
Tossed and dashed by wave.
Crossing of Drake Passage
Sorts the timid from the brave."
AB
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Day 3 February 21
We are scheduled for afternoon arrival in Antarctic waters. There is no "port". Small inflatable Zodiac boats must bring visitors from the main cruise ship to the shoreline.
LS
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| Landing on King George Island |
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Geoff Smith unloads his camera, as a Zodiac bringing more passengers approaches King George Island Photo Courtesy of Lynda Joy Smith
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Notes on Day 3 of the Journey
King George Island Arctowski (Polish Research Station they winter over here) Copacabana (American Research Station (summer staff only)
Summer dressing for Antarctic shore landings means you layer your clothing. Thermal underwear, 2 pairs of thick socks, long sleeved skivvy, polar fleece jumper, gloves, hat, scarf, and waterproof jacket and pants. A lot of clothes. The waterproofs are essential as you do get wet in the polar cirkel boats.
For shore landings we were divided into 8 groups with about 32 in each group. When our group number was called we proceeded to the tender deck on level 2. Donning the rubber gum boots we walked through 2 lots of disinfectant before boarding the Zodiacs. When we reboarded we walked through disinfectant again and then the "Brush Scrubber" to clean our boots. This is a plywood sheet with stiff bristle brushs attached. This is to stop cross contamination in this very pristine environment.
Our landing was on the pebbled beach of King George Island a short rocky hike brought us to the Elephant seals lazily lolling on the shoreline. I noticed a fur seal about 600 feet ahead and he caught the attention of the guides. The order to move back quickly was given. A fur seal standing up is not good news. They will attack and bite. We were told not to run. An initial charge is a challenge to see who is the boss! You should stand your ground, scream, yell and wave your arms if challenged.
We hightailed it back along the beach where we passed whalebones and a solitary Adelie penguin. The path to Arctowski was taken up by 3 Chinstrap penguins who were quite happy to let us pass 10 feet away! Humans don't worry penquins as we are not a natural enemy. Leopard seals are at the top of that list followed by Skuas who steal chicks and eggs.
Our pre landing talks set out rules for viewing the wildlife and mentioned if you change the animal's behavior you are too close! One of the Chinstraps bent over as though to pick up a pebble. I clicked my camera and the noise made him stop and look at me. I guess I changed his behavior and will have to be more careful now that I know my shutter is a bit too loud. The Adelie penguin rookery is designated an Area of Special Scientific Interest and cannot be entered by visitors.
Our time on land went quickly and we were back on ship where we were joined for dinner by the Polish and American Scientists. After dinner they gave an informative talk about their work. They Zodiaced back to their bases about 9:30. We are enjoying 16 hour of daylight here.
LS
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| Arctowski Polish Research Station |
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A view of Arctowski Research Station as a lone penguin grooms himself and scattered whalebones lay on the rocks. Photo Courtesy of Lynda Joy Smith
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| How many tourists did you invite? |
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| Map of Antarctica |
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Day 4 February 22, Day 5 February 23, Day 6 February 24
Our program for these days will be matched to what the weather throws our way. Possible Zodiac visit spots are Deception Island, Whaler's Bay, Half Moon Island and the most southerly post office in the world, Port Lockroy. This is where you can mail your postcard via the British Postal System stamped ANTARCTICA! I am counting on going ashore!
LS
The travel brochure mentions possible visits to:
Deception Island has views of the volcano. This Whalers Bay location is a common area for whale spotting and penguins.
Half Moon Island has penguins and seals this time of year.
The beautiful narrow Lemaire Channel is an area where seals, whales, and penguins are usually seen.
The Neumayer Channel has majestic cliffs.
Paradise Harbour with it's ice covered cliffs, and Alm Brown may also be a visit.
Port Lockroy with it's post office and gentoo penguins.
Neko Harbour, Petermann Island, Arctowski and Vernadsky Base are all mentioned as possible landing sites.
Shore Zodiac inflatable boat landings are subject to weather and number of tourists on land restrictions! The choices of where or if the tourists go these places must be decided daily.
AB
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Notes on Day 4 of the Journey
Brown Bluff Antarctic Sound
Woke at 6AM and looked out the porthole straight at an enormous iceberg! Geoff said he had never seen me shower, wash and blow dry my hair, choose my outfit for the day all in 15 minutes. Rushed outside to deck 5 and spent the next hour and a half taking pictures of tabular icebergs and whale watching in the spectacular Antarctic Sound. The largest tabular (flat topped) iceberg we saw in the thirty mile long sound is almost 2 miles long.
Landing this afternoon on the actual Antarctic continent at Brown's Bluff was awesome! It's the home to a very large Adelie penguin colony. The high season of breeding around January sees up to 500,000 pairs nesting at this rookery. I can't imagine what this beach might look like when a million birds are shoulder to shoulder, mating, feeding and fighting over pebbles for their nests.
So far this is the most southerly point the MS Fram has traveled and we can actually see the Weddell sea in the distance where still unchartered waters lie 4 miles ahead. Today is unbelievable. Our photos will be the proof of picture perfect sunny weather to sit and watch a real life "March of the Penguins"! A group of around a dozen youngsters were waddling along the beach keeping an eye out for trouble. We were not the trouble, but there were Leopard seals prowling the shallows in wait. One bobbed up to take a look and his head was huge. Those little penguins better quickly learn to swim very fast! We want to warn them but this is nature and we are privileged to witness both the good and the bad.
Two swimmers braved the minus 28F waters and earned themselves an Antarctic Swimming Certificate. We declined the invitation!
This was a day even the experienced Antarctic guides described as the best they have ever seen.
Quote: "Who would believe in penguins unless he had seen them". Conor O'Brien
LS
Amazing! You actually saw the feared Leopard Seal!
AB
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"Brown's Bluff is home to Adelies.
The pairs they number high.
All about the young ones dance
Beneath blue sunny sky."
AB
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Notes on Day 5 of the Journey
Wilhelmina Bay Neumayer Channel Port Lockroy
Nearly gale force winds of 7 on the Beaufort scale (16MPH) gave us -2C (or 28F) on the outside deck. The Gerlache Strait greeted us with fog, snow and rain. Welcome to normal summer weather in Antarctica. The PA system announced Humpback whales sighted off the port bow, but they dived before I saw them. I also missed the Minke whales that were sighted later. The Fram battled the waves to Wilhelmina Bay, where the partially submerged wreck of the whaling ship Guvernoren rests near Foyn Harbour.
We continued on to Port Lockroy. I was to be in the third landing group. The first 2 groups managed to make their landings before all further landings were cancelled due to the dangerous wild and windy conditions! The last Zodiac back was half full of water and some passengers were nervous while others loved the thrill of riding the rough waves. I was so disappointed because I counted on this stop but safety must come first. Even so it was a let down. We were to overnight at anchor at Port Lockroy but icebergs were being blown at a fast rate towards the ship and it was unsafe to stay. The ice was moving so we had to move on and find a safer harbor. Weather permitting we will try again for Port Lockroy in the morning. My fingers are crossed!
The Captain, Rune Andreassen and the expedition leader Ian Shaw decide where and if we can land. At each landing site safety equipment is brought ashore. This includes drinking water, high calorie rations, medical kit (and a doctor or nurse as well), thermal protection suits, thermal blankets, and tents. When the katabolic winds blow, everything shuts down.
LS
Weather is king in Antarctica and the deciding factor where and when landings can be made. It sure looks like the "Hockey Legend Myth & Verse" book it NOT going to make it to Rick at the Port Lockroy Post Office after all. Fate can be cruel.
AB
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"Ready was the Zodiac
Port Lockroy was our plan
Seas and wind did turn about
As the weather can."
AB
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Notes on Day 6 of the Journey
Lemaire Channel
The Lemaire Channel is known by the expedition staff as the Kodak Channel. This 7 mile long channel took about 1 hour to travel and is always impressive. The ships pilot was constantly checking behind as ice can close in and block the return route! Around 8 hours were needed to enter the channel, do an on shore landing on Petermann Island, and return to the channel entrance.
Petermann Island
Ice conditions are very important when considering this landing. But it was worth the journey to see Adelie penguins, the world's southernmost Gentoo penguins plus Imperial Cormorants (blue eyed shags). Two walking paths were available on Petermann Island. A 15 to 20 minute walk up the hill offered great views of the bay. We could slide down at our own risk. Sleds were not needed because waterproof pants gave enough slide! We had time to check out the Cormorant's home. The rescue hut and the graves of the researchers who never returned home were restricted areas. There are a few rescue huts in Antarctica that offer shelter for scientists on field trips. If katabolic winds blow they have shelter, some dried food, fuel wood and kerosene to see them through.
At the landing site our guides warned us the ice was very slippery today and to be careful. The penguins were so close and unafraid. My Geoff, wearing his penguin hat, sat on a rock to watch a half grown chick who soon waddled over to peck his gumboot. The penguin kept walking around Geoff staring at his hair. I will caption these photos "Father & Son". Other cute behavior we saw was the chicks chasing their mum. One penguin had two chicks chasing her into the water, while others were flapping and loudly chirping at dive bombing skuas trying to attack them. Further up the path penguins were learning how to ice skate! One brave heart seemed to be loving it and kept launching himself on the ice with his own style of footwork.
We were fascinated with nature's activity and ventured a bit further towards the Cormorant's colony for more up close and personal views. Falling on green ice (ice with frozen moss) ended my nature contact and I gingerly made my way back to the landing area on Geoff's arm. No bones broken but I have to sit sideways because of some bruising. I mentioned to the guide I thought I might slide into the water and she replied that I would have received my Antarctic Swimming Certificate. Glad to miss that!
Back on board and traveling we saw 3 Orcas (killer whales)! Late afternoon and where were we headed?
Back to Port Lockroy!
Port Lockroy has treated us well! Their rules only allow 2 cruise ship visits per day but today they made a special exception for the MS Fram! I had been shut out by the weather the other day but NOT today! Success! I was able to present Port Lockroy a copy of Artica Burr's book at last! This was a very friendly landing with Rick, Helen and Rachel from the post office crew, plus the Gentoo penguins who roost all around and under the historic hut. The post office crew's takeout dinner of sweet and sour chicken, rice and drinks were in the Zodiac with me when we landed. There is also the fact that the MS Fram does their laundry from time to time. I'm sure that added to the "happy to see us" attitude. The post office closes at 6PM and it was 7:30PM. We only had a short 30 minutes and too soon we said goodbye to the fascinating living museum of Port Lockroy.
LS
I cannot believe the turn around! Thanks so much Lynda. The Goalie King book made it to Antarctica proper! The king does advocate little penguins learn to skate early. "Happy Feet" was not so far off in the end all!
AB
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| Antarctic penguins learn to skate |
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"Important that the penguins
Learn to skate upon the ice.
Once they get the hang of it
Their footwork's awfully nice."
AB
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Day 7 February 25 and Day 8 February 26
Re cross of the Drake Passage on the return to South America. I still have my fingers crossed. This passage is approximately 800 Kilometers or 497 miles or 35 hours sailing time. This is longer than my traveling time from Australia!
LS
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Notes on Days 7 and 8 of the Journey
February 25
The weather dictated our landing plans the last few days. We had to miss out on our planned landing on Deception Island and miss the opportunity to swim the thermal waters at Whaler's Bay!
Traveling today the Fram's speed got to 17 knots with a following sea. The wind is very strong at 18 knots and the team's pre landing brief included instructions that if the ship's horn blows, all back to the landing site because this means the weather is worsening.
My Geoff ventured on shore, and I stayed aboard updating my notes and resting my bruises. He took pictures of a solitary Macaroni penguin, with the yellow mohawk hairdo, there amongst the chinstrap penguins. Geoff said the Macaroni constantly groomed himself as though he knew he was the center of attention and his picture would be seen by hundreds.
The wreck of the water boat was visible this week. This boat was used by whalers to take snow to their ship for fresh water supply. The onboard geologist said last time she visited Half Moon Island only the top was visible above the snow.
Leaving Antarctic waters this afternoon and heading back to the Drake Passage for our 36 hour return trip. The weather forecast is for a fresh breeze, 5 on the Beaufort scale. This I now know can change at any moment!
While I had an afternoon spa to ease my bruises, I sighted 6 lots of penguin groups and 1 whale blowing in the distance. I took my last look at the South Shetland Islands and the Fram started porpoising itself through the sea. The spa water cascaded over the deck as we moved into a thick fog and the silence was everywhere.
I will miss the beauty of this place. I think I'll take my ginger sea sickness tablets, just in case rough sea awaits us!
LS
What a nice way to say farewell to the 7th continent!
AB
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"Whales off in the distance
Penguins on the ice.
The shoreline now receding
Antarctica was nice.
The ship began to surge ahead
To leave it all behind
We disappear in thickened fog
But oh, the memories mine!"
AB
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Now to fly back to Chile February 27!
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| Up Closer to the MS Fram |
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Advertising photos from MS Fram
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| Big change from boats I'm used to ..... |
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| Melbourne Tramboat in February |
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| Melbourne Skyline in the Distance |
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Photos courtesy of Lynda Joy Smith
Permission granted for photos to be used for this project only. Contact Lynda Joy Smith via the message board for any permission and/or arrangments concerning further use of these photos.
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©2008 Last Update March 2008
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